What Is Butt Welding and How Can It be Used Effectively?

There are several ways to attach two metal pipes together.  To choose which one to use, you must decide based on what is best or needed for the job at hand therefore it is vital to understand each method.  These methods are:

  • Threaded
  • Stab-type Fittings
  • Soldered
  • Brazed
  • Welded – Which has two types, namely : Butt Weld and Socket Weld
  • Saddle Fusion

Among these, Butt Welding is the most common of pipe welding joining methods.  This is commonly used for pipes which generally shares the same diameter.  This method is also most popularly used in commercial and industrial pipe systems. 

What Is Butt Welding?

Butt welding is when two pieces of metal pipes are joined together within the same plane.  This method requires some preparation and is used mostly for thin metal sheets, which need to be welded in a single pass.  This technique can be automated or it can be pieced together by hand on to the steel pieces.  Brazing can also be done under this method for copper pieces.  This method is used to attach two metal pieces such as pipes, framework in factories, and in flanges as well.

The butt-welding method is the preferred type for commercial purposes since it is more economical, as well as providing a strong fusion of the two metal pieces.  Also, it uses the least amount of welding materials and at the same time giving out a strong weld.  The automated butt weld process is the more favored process because of its ease of preparation and there is a low chance of adjustments in cases of non-ideal joint preparation because of the absence of human guidance.  It is expected that butt welds have the strongest welds with the least amount of imperfections. 

How Can Butt Welding be Used Effectively?

Butt welding is used when directional drilling so as to avoid joiners from sticking out thus making the thrust difficult.  A smooth flush finish outside the pipe is needed to enable the thrusted pipe to be pushed through without getting stuck.  Also this method does not need the metal piece to be welded together by having to bend everything and reinforce the structure which can then cost more than just welding two metal pieces together through this method. 

This method works best with MIG or TIG welding applications because of its ability to connect two metal pipes.  This method can be done by pressing the ends of the material together while a current is passing through them.  The temperature between the materials is high which softens the metal into a plastic-like state which them makes it fuse together.  When using this technique, it should also be noted that the diameter and thickness of the pipes and fittings should be equal as well as the material used. 

Advantages of Butt Welding

There are several advantages of butt welding among these are:

  1. It assures of its permanent leak proof quality and strength. 
  2. Having a continuous steel structure between the pipes and fittings gives the piping system better strength.
  3. The pipe fittings when used using this method gives out a smooth surface and a gradual directional changes thus making it decrease the pressure losses, the turbulence of the system and protecting it from corrosion and erosion.
  4. This method is more economical, which does not hurt the budget.
  5. Butt welding joints also offer smaller space in the system. 
  6. A weld can be made using this method in a wide range of sizes and complex shapes although both ends should be equally matching. 
  7. This can be used in a wide range of materials such as steels, stainless steel, aluminum alloys, nickel alloys or titanium. 
  8. Solidification cracking and porosity is usually not an issue.
  9. The butt welding process can be automatic or semi-automatic and monitoring of the welding process can already indicate the quality of the work.

How Can Drainage NZ Help?

Drainage NZ’s over 20 years of experience in this field can provide services together with their qualified drain layers. The team is certified, qualified, and registered, therefore, assuring clients that only the best services are offered with the highest of standards and in compliance with NZBC standards. 

Services include all aspects of drainage, such as driveway cesspits and channels, drain repairs, and drain unblocking in both residential and commercial drainage work.  Aside from these, the company is also offering its services in general plumbing and gas fitting works. 

Drainage NZ offers services in directional drilling works.  Their services include water distribution piping, fire protection lines, sanitary sewer piping, storm sewer drainage piping, gas distribution piping, landfill applications, irrigation applications, and electrical/telecommunications. 

There are also several reasons why horizontal directional drilling is used. One of the reasons is that there is lesser traffic disruption.  It also offers lower costs since there is no labor or concrete reinstating.  There is also a possibility for deeper installation, long installation is possible, job can be completed for a short period of time and lastly, it is safer for the environment.

For more information, just visit our website.

Test your house and basement areas for moisture.

Moisture issues can be a drag, especially if you’re just starting out in your new home. Usually, moisture problems are solved with the right foundations and wall treatment with the appropriate drainage system. If you need Auckland moisture testing, then you’ve come to the right place. We have our own specialized tools to test for moisture. Plus, we provide solutions that last a lifetime, not just for a few years.

Moisture testing can be tricky. You can Do-It-Youself (DIY) or hire experts to do it for you. Keep in mind that going down the DIY route may cause more harm than good if you’re not familiar with the task at hand.

These are the things we do during Moisture Testing in Auckland:

  • Pre-home-purchase survey home moisture testing,
  • Damp basement moisture tests,
  • Leaky home building testing, and
  • Post flood drying test.

Protect Your Family’s Health and Safety

Building moisture in any home or building is almost always at the top of the list of the most common problems uncovered during home inspections for buyers. Building moisture, especially in the basement and attic, is usually overlooked during home moisture testing. If you have moisture problems in your home, then you need to find an expert in home moisture testing.

Usually after flooding in an area, people tend to think that the surface looks and feels dry; hence, it must be dry. This is so far from the truth. Floodwater tends to get into everything – skirting board, wall cavities, jib, dry carpet, and flooring.

Even though the surfaces look dry and can be dried using dehumidifiers or fans, more often than not, there are moisture problems in these areas.

The truth of the matter is, the real problem is the hidden moisture, which can’t always be visible to the naked eye. Left unchecked, this will cause mold to grown in areas that you can’t see, which will cause damage to your house leaving rotting areas, long term mold, and unpleasant smells in your home. You will need the help of experts to dry your carpet, walls, and cavities.

Mould Testing and Removal

Excessive moisture in your house can lead to inconvenient and unwanted problems such as rotted framing, odors, foundation movement, structural pests, as well as allergy causing molds. In fact, some molds may cause cancer so you need to take this problem seriously.

Mold Moisture Test

Mold tends to grow in areas where it has food and water, which are usually found in buildings. The mold growth reveals the excess home moisture, which may be caused by leaking water pipes, flooding, and other building materials.

Mould Release Toxins Resulting In Health Effects, Including:

  • Allergies,
  • Asthma and Other Breathing Disorders,
  • Eye, Nose, and Sore Throat,
  • Skin Problems,
  • Fatigue, and
  • Headache

Moisture Meter Probe Tests

Moisture probes and no evasive moisture meters are effective for testing inside the building material or structure.

Here are 7 steps to manually check the moisture problem in your house:

1. Carefully check the wall surface.

Look for discoloration in the surface, including yellowing material or rounded brown spots. Also, black discolorations that are often furry will indicate mold and mildew growths. Check also the wall texture for peeling paint, warping, or buckling surfaces.

2. Slightly push on the wall to check how it feels.

Drywall that’s moisture damaged will feel soft and spongy. Meanwhile, wood-sheathed walls might feel a bit solid, even if there’s a moisture problem. You can use a butter knife or screwdriver to scrape across the surface or poke into the wall to reveal damaged wood.

3. Smell-test the wall for moisture.

Wet wall interiors are the favorite environment for mildew and mold to grow. It’s dark and moist, with lots of food available for the fungus. The more moisture there is in your walls, the faster the mold grows, leading to wood rot. Musty smelling walls are sure sign of moisture problem. Get your nose closer to the wall interior by removing the faceplate from a wall outlet, which helps you discover the problem faster.

4. Drill holes into the wall.

You will need to drill two small holes, about 3/16 inches in diameter and about 1 inch apart, into the wall. You can work from the house interior or exterior both methods work. Outside, drill a hole that’s deep enough to pass through the siding without drilling into the exterior wall sheathing. Once inside, drill through the wall, past the vapor barrier and into the insulation.

5. Insert the probes from a probe moisture meter into the bored holes.

Turn the meter on.Then, follow the manufacturer’s instructions and read the moisture content display. You will need to adjust the probes to get a steady reading and accurate results. Take several readings, for instance, 3 readings in 30 minutes.

6. Compare the reading to ideal moisture levels.

Zero moisture is not practical or even realistic. Any wood that’s been used to frame a house should have a certain amount of moisture. Normal readings should measure around 7 to 13 percent moisture. In fact, slightly higher readings may be normal for your house. However,extremely high readings need immediate attention.

7. Fill the test holes if moisture levels are normal inside your wall.

Following the test, if visual and mechanical readings indicate normal moisture levels within your wall, fill the test holes. Then squirt colored or clear silicone caulk into the hole from outside to fill it and make it waterproof. Use wood putty or spackling compound and drywall tape to cover hopes inside the house. However, if your moisture test is positive, you need to tear off the wall sheathing to repair the wall interior, as needed.

You can do these steps yourself in a DIY manner. However, if you want professional Auckland moisture testing for basement flooding in your house or building, call us and we’ll send you a quote right away. We have our own specialized tools to test for moisture and provide solutions that last a lifetime. Book an Auckland moisture testing with us today.

We Build Rock Walls and Provide Concrete Services

Drainage NZ have been providing residential and commercial drainage services for over a decade successfully. Drainage works more than often require concrete cutting, driveway removal, and demolishing of existing landscape, including retaining walls.

Once all drainage works are complete, these areas need to be reinstated. What’s even more important is that reinstatement should complement the newly installed drainage system.

Whether it’s a new subsoil installation or a repair or replacement of storm water and sewer lines, these reinstatement and landscaping works need to be done correctly. This got us thinking!

Since we have all the expertise, machinery and manpower, we can offer our customers these services directly. We save you thousands of dollars and ensure a third-party contractor does not undermine the new drainage system.

As such, we have already started providing these services to dozens of clients to this extent and they extremely satisfied with the result! We officially offer the following service to New or Existing clients:

Volcanic Rock Walls

Also known as Lava Rock Walls, Volcanic Rock Walls are walls built from volcanic rocks. There are many ways to build volcanic rock walls. Many contractors use bigger rocks at the bottom and pile smaller rocks on top while others prefer to layer smaller rocks at the bottom and build the wall using bigger volcanic rocks on top.

These volcanic rock walls are lovely to look at and provide a wonderful backdrop for gardens and swimming pools. They are pleasing to the eyes and unique in their own rights. You will need access to lava rocks in order to build one.

You can use volcanic rock walls for your house. They offer a beautiful alternative to old-fashioned cement and concrete. Some people build desert houses using lava rock as their foundation.

Volcanic rock walls are gaining popularity in mainstream architecture as they provide a wonderful alternative to boring old walls.

If you’re thinking about building volcanic rock walls, there are a myriad of options found online that you can use for your construction plans. I suggest you explore those options first before you start building your lava rock walls. Better yet, call us and we will build your volcanic rock walls for you at an affordable price.

Concrete Driveways (Exposed Aggregate, Polished or Brushed Finished)

Concrete Driveways are a favorite of both professional installers and homeowners alike. Concrete slabs are durable and strong and they require little to no maintenance. They last longer than other materials, which is why most people choose to build concrete driveways in their homes and offices.

Concrete is more expensive than asphalt and gravel – although it is definitely cheaper than using cobblestone, brick, or concrete pavers. Concrete outlasts these other materials, making it the more practical choice if you want longevity and cost cutting in the long run.

You have three choices for concrete use: exposed aggregate, polished, or brushed finished.

Also known as decorative concrete, exposed aggregate concrete uses natural stones from quarries and riverbeds that are hand-seeded into a concrete base. It’s durability and classy look makes exposed aggregate concrete the perfect choice for patios, pool decks, walkways, driveways, commercial entryways, etc.

Polished concrete is processed using a series of mechanically ground polishing or grinding steps similar to terrazzo production. Polished concrete is an eco-friendly, “green” flooring system that’s LEED approved.

Brushed finished concrete is a type of finish that is in contrast to finished concrete, which has a smooth finish. Although smooth finished concrete is standard, more and more builders now go for the brushed finished concrete finish.

Whichever you choose, we can do it for you.

Concrete Cutting and Removal

Concrete cutting and removal requires that the area is cleared of debris and other objects that may hinder movement of the people involved. Items that may be damaged by dust or concrete fragments need to be covered with protective sacks or mats.

You can cut and remove concrete yourself using a sledgehammer. However, you will need to be very careful as accidents may occur using power tools. You need to break down the concrete into smaller parts to be able to remove it. You also need to cut away steel reinforcements. After that, you will need to remove and dispose of the concrete that you have unearthed.

Cutting and removing concrete may require professional help as you need someone who knows how to handle the power tools needed to cut and remove said concrete. You will need to hire an expert to do this for you.

We provide this service for you at a low cost. We will cut and remove any concrete material that you wish to eliminate from your premises.

Paving and Soakage Capable Landscaping (To Accommodate Subsoil Drainage)

Pavements are outdoor floor or superficial surface covering. Paving materials include concrete, asphalt, stones like cobblestones, flagstone, and artificial stone, tiles, or bricks.

Landscape architecture categorizes pavements as part of the hardscape used on patios, road surfaces, courtyards, and sidewalks.

Soakage Capable Landscaping allows for the disposal of storm water through a private in-ground soakage system to be maintained by the property owner.

Soakage systems require an overland flow path that caters to the storm water overflow in accordance with the design standard requirements for soakage systems.

Paving and soakage capable landscaping is designed to accommodate subsoil drainage in your area.

We also provide paving services. All you have to do is ask.

Surface Water Management

Surface Water Management is designed to prevent surface water flooding, which occurs when heavy storms overwhelms your local drainage systems and capacity.

Surface water management requires coordinated action by people and groups who manage land, river, and drainage systems in your area.

This project investigates local flooding from drains, sewers, runoff from land, and groundwater during heavy rainstorms in your area.

Surface water flooding happens when rain brought about by heavy storms overwhelms your local drainage systems.

We provide surface water management as one of our services. You can count on us to help prevent flooding in your area by installing a drainage system that can handle surface water flooding.

As it happens, every job we complete requires some final touches, which include some of the services listed above. Our prices are extremely sharp and our finishing is exquisite!

Subsoil Solutions For Aucklanders

Since the deluge in 2017, Auckland’s problem with its ageing stormwater drainage pipes came to light. The city’s population growth, coupled with the rise of multi-unit blocks of flats, is putting too much strain on stormwater facilities.

While the Council is already building a multi-million dollar central interceptor to address Auckland’s water woes, many can be done on the private property owners’ part to help the situation. This includes improving their home’s drainage system to minimise runoff to the streets and prevent debris from funnelling into stormwater inlets. Silt and debris blockage was one of the major contributing factors to the massive flooding and damage in New Lynn during the storm.

Installing structures such as subsoil drainage can help to maintain flow conveyance and remove litter and excess sediments that block hotspot inlets during heavy rainfall events.

The problem with old pipes and clay

About 16,000 households or 2 per cent of Auckland’s wastewater network use combined stormwater and sewage pipes. Many of the pipes in older parts of the isthmus were installed a century ago and have not been replaced or “separated.” In heavy downpour, stormwater can easily overload the pipes and backflow into the sewage system.

The stormwater dilutes the wastewater. And when it overflows on private property, it does not only cause a smelly problem but also poses a bigger issue from a public safety perspective. This usually happens on parts of the network that weren’t separated. In some areas, like Hauraki Gulf Islands, there is no formal stormwater system and natural land drainage isn’t sufficient to deal with stormwater.

The problem is exacerbated by Auckland’s clay-dense soils formed under a warm and moist climate. Clay accumulations are particularly high in western suburbs and the inner city areas have soils.

Clay particles accumulate in the layer of the earth below the surface soil, hence called the subsoil. This layer is made up primarily of minerals and leached compounds, and lacks most of the organic elements and the rich soil fauna and flora found in the top soil. Clay has low-porosity and impedes the land’s natural ability to absorb and drain away stormwater.

So when the rain pours, stormwater tends to pond on low-lying areas around homes or run off to the roads, overloading the public wastewater infrastructure. If the flooding reaches the foundation of a house, it can compromise its structural integrity and safety.

This video shows the usual drainage problems that Aucklanders are facing.

What can be done?

The Auckland Council is in charge of stormwater management, but property owners are responsible for maintaining private stormwater assets that run to their property. These private stormwater assets include drains, catchpits, grates, pipes, roof gutters, rain gardens, permeable paving, ponds and soakage pits.

Soak hole repairs and inspections

Stormwater is typically directed to a soak hole rather than led directly to the stormwater network. In areas with no stormwater reticulation facilities, soak holes allow water to percolate to the ground.

Soak holes are basically manholes with boreholes ranging from 5 to 20 metres deep. Over time, soak holes get blocked by the silt, vegetation and litter they trap, and this can cause flooding. These devices require annual cleaning and maintenance, which can include flushing the bores, disposing the waste properly, and checking the inlet pipes.

Soak hole inspections may also be done at any time to ensure the device is functioning as it should and complies with the required health and safety standards.

Subsoil drainage

If your existing stormwater assets are not sufficient, consider incorporating a subsoil drainage system. It can be as simple as digging a trench and filling it with gravel or rock (called a French drain or weeping tile). Modern subsoil drainage uses a specialised perforated pipe covered with geotextile material, which is laid around the foundation or in low-lying areas within the property.

As well as minimising flood risk, installing an effective drainage system can give your property’s market value a boost. In fact, part of the process of property valuation is a thorough inspection from little things such as materials quality and efficiency wiring and plumbing, to general details like the location, the lot and the house itself.

Nobody wants to buy a house that gets flooded every time it rains. So things like upgrading old plumbing fixtures or installing an efficient drainage system are good investments with greater potential reward. Even if you don’t plan to sell, these projects can increase your quality of life and protect your home from costly water damage.


Hiring qualified and experienced drainlayers

Below are some of the important benefits of hiring an authorised drainlayer for the job:

  • Compliance. Drainlaying is generally a restricted work because it involves sanitary fixtures that concern public heath safety. There are also minimum requirements, specifications and standards to keep in mind when building subsoil drainage, especially for subdivision construction. For instance, the subsoil drainage must have a cesspit or holding pit before overflowing into an approved point of discharge. The pipes must also be laid deep enough into the subsoil, otherwise it will simply drain away the surface water and flooding will persist.
  • Real value for money. The right people will provide the right solution for your property. You get quality results that prevent expensive problems from recurring.
  • Professional insurance reports. A standard home insurance typically includes water damage cover. If you want to make a claim due to sewer backup, overflow and discharge, or flood, a licensed drainlayer can provide you with a detailed and professional insurance report to serve as proof. If you are taking out an insurance policy, a professionally written report for your new drainage system will increase your chances of getting coverage for drainage emergencies.

To learn more about subsoil drainage solutions in Auckland, talk to us.

Have You Been Instructed By Watercare To Do Sewer Repairs?

If you are working on a public or private site near public utility pipes, you will most likely need a resource consent and engineering approval from the Auckland council as well as a Works Over approval from Watercare. As per Water Supply and Wastewater Network Bylaw 2015, the design of a structure shall protect the public water supply network and wastewater network from possible damage, misuse and interference. It also must not harm the environment or the safety of the people using the water supply.

Typical projects that need said approval are subdivisions, major developments and multi-lot projects. But in general, this requirement covers any project that includes building over a pipe, working close to a manhole and trenching of services.

The Works Over approval is given on the basis that the owner acknowledges all risk associated with repair or replacement works on the pipeline and future maintenance. On the other hand, Watercare assumes no risk or responsiblitity concerning the building, engineering or legal work associated with the application, the work itself and any consequences arising from future works (if any).

So if upon review of your application, Watercare finds any damage to the pipeline within your site plan, you will be asked to carry out sewer repairs or replacement. You may need to provide an initial CCTV inspection survey along with your application, for this purpose.

As the owner, it is your responsibility to pay for all repair/replacement costs and to ensure the following steps are undertaken:

  1. The work must be carried out by a licensed/registered drainlayer certified by the Plumbers Gasfitters Drainage Board (PGDB). A certified drainlayer would work to comply with Watercare’s requirements for your particular building project.
  2. The drainlayer must secure an authorisation from Watercare to work on the public utility network. The approval to access and/or connect to the wastewater network must be applied for and granted prior to commencing work. To apply for this authorisation, you will need to provide a copy of your approved Works Over pack.
  3. Once some or all of the work have been completed, your drainlayer should provide a CS3 form with an as-built plan of the completed work. These will be sent to compliance @water.co.nz.
  4. One all works are complete, a final CCTV inspection must be submitted to ensure that the pipe has been repaired and none of the other pipes were affected.

Under normal circumstances, building over or adjacent to a public drain isn’t permitted. Nevertheless, dispensation is given as along as specific conditions are complied with and the building work is completed according to the approved plans.

The following are the specific conditions stipulated by Watercare:

  • Existing asset/ wastewater connection

The property owner is responsible for identifying the exact location of all Watercare pipes and structures (including connections) onsite to ensure all clearance requirements are met as per Watercare Engineering Standards. Any blockages and/or damage resulting from inability to identify and protect these assets will be shouldered by the owner at his own cost.

As service connections are not allowed under the building footprint, the owner must see to the relocation of existing connections to a minimum 1m clearance from the building. Moreover, all work involving the existing wastewater service connections must be compliant with Watercare’s compliance statement policy. A separate ‘new connection application’ is required for all new wastewater connections.

  • Foundation

To protect the wastewater pipe, foundation design must provide adequate support and protection for the structure on top of the pipe and the bridging piles must absorb the structural load of the building. All excavated sites within the 45o filed of the influence must be shored or retained properly to avoid damaging the sewer pipe line. The bottom of the foundation slab or beam must be compliant with Watercare Code of Practice Drawing WW 27. At any time throughout the works, Watercare’s ability to maintain and/or replace the pipe must not be impeded.

  • Piles/retaining wall posts

There should be at least 1 metre horizontal clearance between the foundation piles and the face of the pipe. The piles must be in a predrilled hole and founded below the 45o zone of loading influence. Driven piles are not allowed unless they are over 5 metres horizontally from the face of the pipe.

For keystone retaining wall foundation, a minimum vertical clearance from the top of pipe is required as per Watercare Code of Practice Drawing WW 27.

A council structural engineer must inspect bridging details and calculations before issuing a Building Consent and/or EPA.

  • Driveway/vehicle crossing

A minimum of 900mm vertical clearance must be maintained from the top of the driveway slab to the top of the water and wastewater pipes. Heavy machinery must NOT be parked or operated directly above Watercare assets.  Surface mounted assets must be cordoned off to avoid traffic movement over them or must be protected with 30mm steel road plates at construction vehicle crossing points. Any exposed mains must be cover with 150mm layer of SAP7 cushion prior to backfilling. Backfill must be compacted in 200mm layers to achieve maximum density.

  • Manholes

During the course of the work, the owner must ensure all manholes are accessible at all times. The minimum clearance from any structure is 1 meter from the outside edge of the manhole chamber.

  • Damage to Watercare asset

If in case the public water or wastewater line is damaged during construction, the owner must immediately advise Watercare and seek approval for repair work.

  • Post construction CCTV

A final CCTV inspection survey and log must be submitted to Watercare once all of the works have been completed. This is to ensure that no defects/damage to the sewer pipes have been incurred during construction. If any issue is found on the post construction CCTV, the repair and all associated costs must be borne by the property owner.

If you need a reliable drainlayer to carry out Watercare compliant sewer repairs, get in touch with Euro Plumbing on 0800 832 638. We have the expertise and equipment for the job, and we’ll take care of your repairs so you can proceed with your building project ASAP.

Wet Carpet Flood Tips

A wet carpet is more than just a nuisance. It may be a symptom of a more serious underlying residential drainage problem such as basement flooding. Not only that, it may also become a cause for serious health risks, i.e. the growth of moulds or mildew.

There are many possible scenarios that can lead to basement flooding. Houses built on wooden pilling with external block walls on foundation are prone to this issue. On the other hand, below-ground-level entryways or long steep driveways invite surface water into the home.

Regardless of the cause, basement flooding is something that needs urgent attention. Wet carpets harbour moulds, including a particularly dangerous one, Stachbotrys, that can cause severe illness in adults or death in infants. In ideal conditions, moulds can grow on wet carpet within a span of 48 to 72 hours

Before you panic, read this handy guide for dealing with a flooded basement. Doing these steps will help prevent permanent damage to your property and belongings:

  • First of all, turn off the circuit breakers to the flooded areas and remove any small electrical devices. For your safety, wear rubber boots and gloves. Or call your local electrician for help.
  • If safe to do so, remove small furnishings immersed in the water to prevent rotting or rusting. Metal furniture may also leave stains on the carpet if left standing on it too long.
  • Hang draperies or other furniture skirts that are in contact with water. This will prevent water stains.
  • Remove valuable items, paper goods, potted plants and breakables.
  • Do not attempt to use a vacuum or shop vac to remove water from the basement. This is a potential electrical shock waiting to happen.
  • Make sure to thoroughly wash your hands after removing important items from your basement.
  • If you suspect that the flooding is sewage related, do not handle any of the items. Also, do not use a fan or turn on the air con unit to dry up the wet floor. This will only help to spread the contamination.
  • Plan for flood restoration professionals to dry and disinfect the flooded area.

Ultimately, the best solution in this situation is to solve basement flooding permanently, not just to deal with the effects.

If left unresolved, it can cause considerable damage to the flooring, furniture and even the structural foundation of your home. You’ll likely run into the same problem in the future as well, so it’s like a never-ceasing headache.

Fixing the root of the problem is the best route. Once you got that sorted out, you should call in flood restoration experts such as Auckland Steam ‘n’ Dry to get your basement back to its original state. You can call them on 09 376-7007.

We recommend doing it the professional way because it guarantees proper drying and restoration methods that will prevent the growth of moulds and eliminate any contamination issues.



Boggy / Soggy Lawn Solutions

Boggy lawns are a pretty common problem for homeowners in Auckland, where many areas have clay soils. High-density soils such as clay soil and compacted soil have low percolation, which means they drain water slowly. As such, they tend to get waterlogged easily in a flash rain, resulting in a soggy lawn.


Having a boggy lawn can be problematic in a number of ways. For one, it can cause flooding. In the event of a heavy rain, the surface water from your lawn might find its way into your basement. Things can get really messy and costly to deal with. If you are growing a garden, poor drainage can drown your flowers and vegetation.

Fortunately, there are a number of subsoil solutions for soggy lawns. The right method will depend on how big your lawn is, how often it gets wet and how long it remains wet.

If the lawn is relatively small, it might be easier to eliminate the problem rather than solve it. In other words, you might want to consider altering your lawn. A well-draining soil needs air in it. In the case of clay, the tiny soil particles are compacted so they don’t allow much room for air. To manage this, you can introduce lots of organic matter such as compost and aged manure to lighten the soil. Organic matter will force the tightly packed soil particles apart, resulting in improved drainage. If you are growing a garden, another option for you is to build raised beds on top of the clay. Planting a cover crop with a deep root system, such as clover, turnip and alfalfa, can also aerate the soil.

If altering your lawn isn’t an option or if your soil is heavy clay, a more effective solution is to install underground drainage pipes or tiles. This is done by laying clay or plastic pipes beneath the ground to create a soakaway that will drain the water off your lawn.  A soakaway is a hole dug in the ground that’s filled with coarse stones, gravel or any material that will allow the runoff to percolate back into the ground faster.


It might sound like a project you can DIY, but it’s a lot of physical labour and can become costly if you make even a small mistake. It also requires precise engineering to ensure proper water runoff and percolation in even the heaviest rains.

We know this very well and we’ve seen a lot of botched DIY attempts at managing a clay lawn, which is why Drainage NZ offers affordable, engineered basement and garage flooding solutions for Auckland. We remedy boggy lawns by installing compliant garden drainage. The process involves soil assessment and percolation tests, so we can determine exactly how to work around your lawn.

Once we have determined the ground slope, percolation rate and the proper location for the drainage pipes, we’ll build a trench filled with loose soil or gravel that will receive the surface water. This is also where the drainage pipes will be laid. The width of the drainage area will depend on the rate at which water must be absorbed back into the ground. If the lawn tends to get waterlogged relatively fast, the trench will have to be larger and filled with gravel instead of loose soil. The drainage pipe used here has special holes in them to allow the water in the trench to enter and be swiftly carried away to a catch area.

The good thing about this solution is it can be integrated into your garden design. It doesn’t have to be an odd line of gravel around your lawn as the drain can be covered by turf or made into an attractive footpath.

Flushing Tampons Down The Drain, What A Pain!

Flushing a used tampon seems like the most convenient course of action – it’s totally mess free and you won’t have to go looking for a nearby rubbish bin. However, in this case, the easiest option isn’t the best.

It’s not a secret that flushing tampons down the loo can clog up the plumbing system and harm the environment. Even tampon brands have these warnings explicitly written on their product packaging.

The problem with flushing tampons

Tampons are designed to be super absorbent. Once they go down the drain, they absorb all the water they can hold and expand like crazy. In fact, they can expand up to ten times their original size. And since they cannot be processed by wastewater treatment facilities, drains are bound to get clogged up by years’ worth of used tampons. Need proof? Have a look at what we found on our recent drain unblocking and CCTV drain inspection work.

Sure they are ‘flushable’ in the sense that they go down the drain without any problems. But the truth is tampons don’t break down in seconds like tissue paper does. Even the biodegradable options take months to break down, so they remain practically intact while they’re making their way through the pipes or the sewage treatment system.

When all those tampons accumulate in the pipes, they can cause blockage which is both problematic and costly. This costs utilities billions of dollars in repair and maintenance costs each year. And you can bet it will cost you a fortune if it happens on your property. If you have a septic tank, the tampons will sink to the bottom and impede the tank’s ability to function.

The result? Blocked drains can cause flooding, health risks and damage to property. It can be very costly to fix these problems.

Aside from causing blockage, flushed tampons can get into clean water sources when the sewer pipes back up and the wastewater overflows into our creeks, rivers and streams. In some instances, they bypass sewage treatment facilities altogether and end up directly in waterways. They not only become an eyesore but can also harm wildlife. In fact, thousands of marine animals and seabirds die from ingestion of marine litter, which include tampons.

Now, if you think flushing tampons down the drain instead of throwing it in the bin is keeping them away from landfills, hold that thought. Any waste that gets caught in the sewage are eventually strained out and sent to – you guessed it – a landfill. So that’s basically just taking the longer route.

What can you do about it?

For starters, follow the 3P’s rule, which is to flush only pee, poop and paper (sparingly). Wrap your used tampon in tissue and throw it in the rubbish bin where it belongs. It’s that simple.

How about the ones that are already down the drain? If water from your pipes is starting to back up or if your drains aren’t working as well as they should, call our team for a drain unblocking and CCTV survey. During inspection, we’ll send a tiny camera down your pipes to locate the source of the blockage before attempting any treatment. This saves a great deal of your time and money, since we can provide the right solution based on concrete evidence and diagnosis. It also means we won’t have to go digging around in your property to find the problem.

For more information, don’t hesitate to call us on 0800 DRAINLAYER (0800 372 465).

What To Do If Your Drains Are Not Draining

Are your drains slacking on the job? Maybe you’ve noticed that your drains are not draining as quickly as they used to, or maybe they are even flooding! If that is the case, you most likely have a blocked drain, and this is not as uncommon as you may think.

Why do drains block?
Common caused for drains getting blocked include:

  • Rubbish stuck in pipe
  • Leaves or other substances blocking the pipe
  • Damage or collapsed pipe
  • Tree roots which have grown into the pipe and blocked it
  • Silt and dirt build up after years of drainage service

Blocked drains are actually a common problem and can cause serious issues if left untreated. Blocked drains can cause health issues and property damage. If you have noticed a blocked drain, you would be wise to act on it.

What to do if you notice a blocked drain
If you notice a blocked drain, you should pick up the phone and call a drain unblocker. The best and fastest way to see what is causing the blockage is by means of a CCTV drain inspection. The drain unblocker will put a CCTV camera down the drain to see what is causing the blockage, and once this is known then appropriate action can be decided.

Here is an example of a CCTV drain inspection:

Once the blockage has been identified, it can now be decided how to best tackle the problem. The solution will depend on whether it’s a blockage or whether the drain is damaged.

If the problem is a blockage, the most likely course of action wiull be to unblock it by means of Hydro jetting. This involves putting a jetting hose down the drain, which sprays water through a water jet at very high pressure to clear any blockages. This method is faster and cheaper than all other drain unblocking solutions, and can be used on all sizes of drain pipes.

If the drain has been damaged, whether it’s by tree roots, burst pipe or otherwise, the solution will involve repairing the broken section of pipe. This is more complicated than a drain unblocking but is necessary to get sorted.

If you are having drainage issues, contact us today by calling 0800 372 465 and let us solve your drainage problem!


Hynds Streetware Product Range

When it comes to streetware castings, there is one brand name that quickly comes to mind: Hynds.

Hynds Pipe Systems Limited is New Zealand’s premier supplier of water and water-based waste management systems for civil, rural and infrastructure applications. This massive family business has built a name and a strong culture through innovation and partnership, which evidently shows in the quality and durability of their products.

To date, Hynds has a nationwide network of 32 merchant branches and over 40,000 product lines, including a full range of innovative Streetware products.

Hynds Streetware

The brand offers a comprehensive range of spun and precast products that include:

  • Traditional cast iron manhole cover and frame sets
  • Cast iron manhole grates, inspection covers, carriageway covers
  • Stormwater grates
  • Safety grilles
  • Surface boxes
  • Kerb and channel grates

All of their products meet currently recognised Australian Standards AS3996-2006 and European Standards EN 124, as well as the loading requirements specified in Transit NZ’s HN-HO-72 standards.

Hynds’ castings load rated for a wide range of applications, from light duty pedestrians to heavy duty carriageway locations, and extreme heavy duty and trafficable airport runways. For your reference, here are the internally approved load classifications:

Cast iron is traditionally used for manhole covers for its robust and reliable nature. Hynds use Gray (Flake Graphite) Grade T220 cast iron in most of their infrastructure castings, making sure the design and quality meets both municipal and regional specific standard requirements. Currently, they are supplying manhole access covers and frames specifically to the council standards of Napier, Palmerston North, Christchurch, Queenstown and Invercargill regions.

Among its product lines are:

  1. Cast Iron Access Covers (Class B and Class D loads)
    With a 450-500mm clear opening, these access covers easily retrofit into existing concrete manhole tops, with a choice of flat or spigoted frames. There’s also a complementary range of circular manhole grates for these access covers.

  3. Hytech Manhole Cover and Frame Sets
    NZ’s local authority called for cast iron streetware products to be manufactured to a recognised standard and tested by an independent third party. Hynds responded with its Hytech range, which carry the NZ Standards Mark and accredited by OPUS International Consultants. Each product in the range is load tested to Australian Standard AS3996.

  5. Cast Iron inspection Covers (Class A load)
    This range consist of light duty, non trafficable inspection covers and frames for grease traps, electrical pits and other areas where regular maintenance is required. The inspection covers can be made watertight and airtight by adding a silicon sealant. It’s locked down with stainless steel allen head screws to prevent theft or unauthorised access.

  7. Cast Iron Storm Water Grates (Class B to D loads)
    These grates are suited to the standard range of concrete cesspits and sized to suit standard sump range. For 675x450mm sump sets, you can have the option for adding anti-theft brackets and screws.
    This particular range is compatible with all regional council requirements for Whangarei, Bay of Plenty, Hamilton, Palmerston North, Napier, Wellington, Christchurch, Queenstown, Dunedin and Invercargill.

  9. Non Slip Heelguard Grates (Class A and Class D loads)
    Particularly suited for pedestrians and areas with expected heavy foot traffic, this range features non-slip epoxy coating and long-lasting galvanised steel construction. Hynds’ Heelguard grates have a flat-edged frame to ensure ease of use with concrete/asphalt pavers, and are compatible with standard concrete sumps.
    Grate and frames sets are available for trenches and cesspits.

  11. Manhole Safety Grilles
    Hynds supply two Watercare-approved brands of stormwater and manhole safety grilles: Caliber and Impact. Both can be retrofitted into existing and new manholes, but Impact grilles can be adjusted to suit a wide range of opening sizes.

  13. Surface Boxes
    A full range of surface boxes made for hydrants, lampholes, pressure sewers, valves and Toby boxes, all of which meet regional and municipal council requirements.

  15. G.A.T.I.C Range
    Sourced from internationally recognised manufacturers, the products in this range are gas, water and airtight with load ratings from Class B (Pedestrian) to Class F/G (Airports/Ports).The Infilled/Solid Top Covers and Decorative Edged Covers feature machined mating surfaces and decorative edge (on request). It comes in either a single or a multiple-part cover and frame set. There are also options for square, rectangle, tee or cellular frames.Meanwhile, the Xpave Infilled Covers are designed with a deep recess to accommodate thicker pavers as well as to make access points discreet and unobtrusive in pedestrians and trafficable areas. The covers are laser-cut for utmost precision.

  17. UBER
    Made with Spheroidal Graphite Grade 500/7, the ductile iron access covers in this range are lightweight and robust but 30% lighter than traditional cast iron. Personalisation is the hallmark of this range, with specific council designs already in supply. The system features bolt down security that meet the HN-HO-72 requirements for sewer and stormwater lids.

  19. Di-Hinged Carriageway Covers
    Manufactured in France for high intensity traffic environments, these ductile iron-hinged access cover system exceeds expectations in terms of strength, performance, stability and protection against water ingress.The range features 360-degree EPDM sealing rubber for non-rock stability, cover locks that open at 90 degrees and personalisation options.
    There are four models in this range: MAESTRO, TWINO, MAXIMO and SOLO. The first three models are load rated to 400kN, while SOLO is designed to suit higher loadings up to 900kN in industrial settings.

  21. Ductile Iron Stormwater Grates and Frames (Class D240)
    Designed with improved hydraulic capture, higher loadings, cycle friendliness and greater aesthetic appeal in mind, these stormwater system features side-locking frames and anti-theft hinge and bolt. It fits standard concrete sumps.

  23. Stormwater Kerb and Channel Grates (Class C260)
    Manufactured in France, Hynds stormwater grates are cycle friendly and meet special requirements associated with smaller subdivision streetscapes.

For the full product specifications and information, see the Streetware product catalogue.

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